A8 camber

[Botang]

You have an S8. It's a quattro based car so it has no straight-single-axle at the rear.
It has only toe-in/out adjustment on the front and camber + toe adjustment at the rear axle. That is it. No other things can be adjusted.

The tech should start and finish adjusting the rear first. It's camber can be adjusted and than modify the toe, then modify the camber again etc. etc.
Why? well when the camber get's adjusted on the 8 the toe get's modified automatically because they are interconnected.
You must "work them towards each other" to get it completely right. It can be tricky.

After the rear is totally as it should be, one can start at the front. The only thing that can be adjusted here is toe.
The rear axle steers the car. With the front axle you change the direction of the car. Sounds wierd but it's true. The rear is the reference for the front and not the other way around.

The S8 has the same control-arms as the A8 but lies 19mm lower. Therefore, the camber is always more negative than that of an A8.
(At the rear it's practically the same for both models by the way.)

A more negative camber on the D2 "8" can only be compensated through giving it even more toe-in. That's all the tech needs to do.

If the S8 is completely standard AND the right program is choosen in the alignment-computer, all you need to do on an S8 is follow the screen and be very precise.

If an A8 or S8 get lowered to more than 19mm with, for example, an Eibach Pro-kit (25mm) than the computer will ALWAYS say the camber on the front is out of specs and thats indeed true.
To compensate for the even greater negative camber now, choose the 99-03 S8 quattro and give it a bit more toe-in than specified but keep it within the the "green zone".

Problems with differences in caster and camber (one side more negative that the other on the same axle) can only be resolved by shifting the entire subframe around until they are the same. This happens a lot with D2 A8's getting lowered.

Experienced alignment techs who know the Audi quattro system will no how much extra toe-in needs to be given.

My car is an 01 A8 lowered 25mm (Eibach) and has been aligned by someone who is trained for Audi quattro and has a lot of field-experience with lowered cars in general. My car drives perfectly and shows normal wear on all tires.

The "just another alignment tech on the shop at the corner" will screw up you car. Go to a specialist !!
It's much more than just getting the numbers in the green. It's what you do within the "green range" that counts. It's really not that simple to align a quattro car.


In Holland for example there are only four (out of a few hundred) shops that understand an Audi quattro and consistantly do a good job on them...
__________________


Audi A8 2.5L V6 TDI quattro (2001)

[tobes49]

I think we need the Sport rear anti-roll bar 4D0 511 409 L,

With trying some different setups and tyre pressures, That should take us under the 3 min mark!

Found some items I think matt been looking for
K-Mac top suspesion arm bushes
Regal Adjustable front suspesion arms

[johnny99]

Feck the Dutch, you need to go Irish,

Try and get 2.5 degrees neg on the front and 1mm toe-in, front
1.25 neg with 1mm toe-in, rear. Fit the bar, it works.

Can you get more negitive camber by lowering the car, without moveing the roll centre too much. It's a lot of work increase the height of the innner/lower pick-up points.

These are starting figure's only, and need to improved upon. There is not correct way.

Toby, can you check castor on the A8, I dont have number's but, they seem to generate a lot of castor (visably) with the suspension design they use. If your getting a lot of castor already, fit powerflex or similar, in order to stop suspension movement. It's no use getting all the number correct, and then, when, under load, the mounts move, changeing your set-up. Testing is then a waste of time.


Toe out is what the old fella's do and it's based on 1970's tyre technology and rally set-up. Toe out does make a car change direction quicker, but it gives too little feedback to the driver' from the apex out. If an normal driver (which we all are compared to professionals) does not feel where the car is, they cannot go quick, they need to have confidence in the car.

John

[Botang]

Not sure if this will help John, a chap from the US that had lowered his car with H&R Coilovers

I finally got my scanner out of the closet for work....and scanned these few documents.

These are my as-found and as-left printouts for alignment of my 97 A8 after installing the H&R suspension.

As you can see, the as-found was way out....and needed to be aligned. The as-left is all in spec.

It has the spec numbers on there, they are the high and low numbers on the little blocks, the large one is the actual setting.

Front caster is not adjustable, but recorded, that's why it's purple....guess I'm going to have to redo these....it's blue and pink....not green and red.....oh well, you get the idea.

[Botang]

dunlop BTCC slicks

610/235/ R17



http://www.racecarsdirect.com/listing/17870/Part_Worn_BTCC_Dulnop_Slicks.html

[Botang]

These are pretty too

First things first... the picture is a shocker and makes the wheels tyres look really scrappy. It's just grease, dust and my poor photography!

Set of 4 Magnesium Dymag Wheels & Tyres. Specification and sizes are as follows:

Front 8J x 18
PCD 112mm x 5
Offset 32mm
Spigot diameter 63mm
Weight 8kg

Rear 10J x 18
PCD 112mm x 5
Offset 56mm
Spigot diameter 63mm
Weight 9 kg

These were used on a prototype cars. The stud pattern is same as Ford Granada/Scorpio, and also Mercedes, VW, Audi.

These wheels new were £450 each.

Tyres fitted:
Goodyear Eagle F1 (GS Fiorano) Fr 225/40 ZR 18 With 6mm Tread
Goodyear Eagle F1 (GS Fiorano) Rr 295/35 ZR 18 With 5mm Tread

VGC (one or two small chips or scuffs) and a bargain at £595 including UK delivery.

[johnny99]

I would have thought he'd have found more neg camber than that after lowering it. Castor figure's seem standard enough.

Slick's will make a savage difference

John